FAZ-Article
Spessart Style
Master watchmaker Rainer Brand defies the retro wave and sets elegant counterpoints.
Watch brands with long-standing traditions often draw from a vast design archive. But therein lies the risk of constantly quoting oneself — and, unfortunately, repeating the past. Rainer Brand, master watchmaker from Heimbuchenthal in the Spessart region, knows exactly what we mean:
“When I started out in watchmaking, the classic Breguets and Vacheron Constantins were our design icons. But you can’t live in the past forever,” he explains. And that sentiment, he says, applies to the entire industry: “Right now, it feels like 95 percent of all new releases are retro watches. I see that as a dead end.” Especially when it comes to his own brand and a new generation of customers: “Young people look at watches differently than our generation did.” He’s embraced this fresh perspective — enough, at least, to develop his own distinct design language that stands apart in a refreshingly authentic way. The first major step in this direction came with the chronograph Kerala Flyback. But the break with convention became unmistakable in 2016 with the launch of the take Five. Three years later came the ecco², and now he’s unveiled another chronograph: the Yoho. Its name pays homage to a national park in the U.S., reflecting both Rainer Brand’s personal passions — for nature, and for watches that truly resonate with him. In an industry often dominated by overblown marketing, it’s genuinely refreshing to encounter a watchmaker who simply does what he believes in. With the Yoho, we believe Brand has hit the mark — even if the dial itself appears a brilliant white. Often called the “face” of the watch, the dial on this model is especially well-balanced and aesthetically pleasing: the brand and model name at 12 o’clock, a line of text below noting that the chronograph is adjusted in five positions. Beneath that, a crescent-shaped date window opens up.
On the horizontal axis, the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock achieve perfect symmetry. The applied luminous numerals are outlined only subtly and also appear white. Like the hands and the date disc, they are coated in luminous material — ensuring excellent readability in the dark. Inside ticks the SW510 calibre by Swiss manufacturer Sellita. Its fine sandblasted finish gives it a discreet, technical aesthetic, further emphasized by Brand’s custom rotor. As indicated on the dial, the movement is adjusted in five positions, ensuring high precision. And indeed, over a week of daily wear, the watch kept time with impressive consistency — gaining just two seconds per day, measured against a radio-controlled clock. That’s chronometer territory. All this is housed in a simple yet exceptionally well-crafted stainless steel case measuring 40.5 mm. A narrow steel bezel around the sapphire crystal allows the dial to breathe, making the watch appear slightly larger on the wrist than the dimensions suggest. It’s paired with a glove-soft leather strap, delivering outstanding wearing comfort. The leather is sourced from a certified organic tannery in the Allgäu region of southern Germany and is available in six colors. Rainer Brand asks 4,400 euros for this chronograph — not a bargain, but certainly fair. Available from select watchmakers and jewelers — and directly in the Spessart as well, by prior appointment only. (Text: Martin Häussermann)
RB20, Ø 41.5 mm, H 14 mm, WR to 10 bar
